Restaurant JAG — earning and maintaining a Michelin star since it opened in 2018 — has relocated to STPI Robertson Quay after a short hiatus. The brainchild of chef Jeremy Gillon and restaurateur Anant Tyagi, Restaurant JAG brings diners a gastronomical experience centred on seasonal vegetables and herbs sourced from France and Italy as well as around the region.
Nestled on the second floor of a beautifully restored 19th-century warehouse, the new space traded white-linen tablecloths for a casual-chic ambience featuring rattan chairs, plenty of wood and plants, with shades of green and gold against a predominantly white backdrop for a touch of sophistication. The 40-seater restaurant, bathed in natural light that streams in from large windows overlooking the Singapore River, is adorned with specially commissioned original artworks that reflect the season's ingredients — in our case the chestnut.
Jovial Chef Jeremy’s evening tasting menu is La Balade du Végétal, or The Vegetable Journey, paying homage to his extensive time in the French Alps of Savoie foraging for little-known herbs. We were treated to a repertoire of autumn produce including rutabaga, celtuce, chayote, banana shallot, salsify, Jerusalem artichoke, chestnut, kohlrabi, celeriac, fig, mandarin and raspberry. These vegetables are presented in 17 different expressions; in canapes, freshly baked bread, amuse bouche, cold and warm appetiser, vegetable-herb tea, palate refresher, main course, cheese trolley, dessert, and seasonal mignardise offerings.
Chef Jeremy’s dishes are figuratively and literally works of art. To truly appreciate the dinner, one has to understand the painstaking efforts that go into each dish. Take the Chestnut-Halibut course: the former plays the starring role in different forms – presented as a puree, in shaved slices, a fricassee, a velouté, and as a crumble, delivering nuances of nutty sweetness and multiple textures (the puree is made with cooked chestnut, milk, and brown butter blended in a Thermomix.). The dish is rounded off with a sustainably farmed halibut that is simply roasted to retain its full flavours.
The winner of the evening is the Celeriac-Challan Duck. Sought after for its lean yet juicy and tender flesh, the duck is smoked with hay in a Dutch oven, playing a key supporting role to the Celeriac, served as a ribbon, pickle, and puree; the concoction infused with mustard oil.
We love the meticulous plating too. The Jerusalem Artichoke-Lobster dish has the red and white crustacean surrounded by raw slices of artichoke twirled into a circle and glazed with sapin and muscovado, placed on a bed of sand made by blending sunflower seeds and linseed with Jerusalem artichoke powder. The crowning piece is the tuile, intricately shaped in a custom mould. Ditto for the amuse-bouche platter comprising tartelette of rutabaga, lentil pearl, parsnip biscuit, and a side of elixir of celtuce.
Restaurant JAG’s vegetable-centric odyssey is a bold move in a fickle fine dining scene. Chef Jeremy cleverly pairs premium proteins with each dish — such as the Hokkaido Sea urchin and scallops, and Australia rock lobster — for a touch of gourmet that elevates the dining experience, leaving you sated but not bloated.
Restaurant JAG is located at 41 Robertson Quay, #02-02 STPI Creative Workshop and Gallery, Singapore 238236.
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